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The Wine Industry of Southern Italy

What type of wine should a producer spend time and money producer? Should he produce an international-style wine, a wine that Robert Parker would like and therefore promote? This begs the question: What is an international-style wine?

Some purists would suggest that modern techniques used worldwide that are now in use in Southern Italy have already done the damage and so all ensuing wine can only be of the international style. Simply put, international-style wines are the ones that are fruit-forward on the nose and palate, with supple tannins, aged in oak barriques, and that don't take 10 or 20 years to age before being able to drink. This is a New-World style wine that many suggest Robert Parker enjoys.

Many producers are making blends of native and international varietals which now conjure up names like "Super Sicilians" or "New Style Campania." The ensuing wines are weighty, highly concentrated, inky, and heavy on fruit and oak, and therefore miss one of the vital components of a top-class wine: these wines simply lack subtlety and refinement because they are so excessive and unbalanced. They are engineered to gain market attention because they play by market rules, not because they play by their own rules/traditions.

In Campania, for example, one will encounter Fianos and Grecos with high residual saccharide levels, and Taurasis that include a fair amount of Merlot in addition to the conventional Aglianico. Aglianico del Vulture is nothing but Aglianico, while in Sicily a Nero d'Avola can be mistaken for a Cabernet. These wines are created, in part, with the help from wine consultants like Michel Rolland and Northern Italian Riccardo Cotarella, folk who've no real appreciation of the South's wines. The sole area which has not compromised its wines is Basilicata.

It's got to be acknowledged that because Southern Italy's climate has more likenesses with Australia and California than with Northern Italy, Southern manufacturers should seriously consider the successfulness of those wine producing regions. That goes past what varietals to plant and can also include learning their marketing techniques. But for the manufacturers who do take some time to find out which varietals will work best in certain vineyards, paying focused concentration to micro-climates, terroir, and climate, the results have been rather rewarding and the soul of Southern wine has not been lost. Librandi is one of these producers who is leading the way, but money and influence from the North and elsewhere still dominate the landscape, at least at present.

Nic Haegeli still considers himself relatively new to the wine business, but he now has several years of experience as a wine manager at Colonial Spirits, an Acton liquor store. With a BA in History and a Master of Public Policy in International Relations, Nic never envisioned himself working with wine. However, he did grow up in Alsace, France... so, it makes sense when you know where he comes from. Be sure to visit Colonial Spirits' Wine Blog, where Nic and the rest of the wine managers at Colonial Spirits of Acton share their collective passion for wine.

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